PARTHASARATHY TEMPLE - CHENNAI

INTRODUCTION

Seeking a culturally immersive experience at a temple that has stood as a symbol of devotion for over a millennium?

It you are planning a trip to South India or there on a weekend during your business trip or just curious about this temple, what is in a visit to the Parthasarathy temple for you? Let’s explore.

Parthasarathy Temple is Chennai’s spiritual anchor. Tucked into the maze-like lanes of Triplicane, one of the city’s oldest and most storied neighbourhoods, this ancient Vishnu temple offers a completely different—but equally mesmerizing—experience of Tamil devotion.

Built originally in the 8th century by the Pallavas and lovingly expanded over centuries, the temple is dedicated to Lord Krishna in his Parthasarathy (charioteer) form—a rare depiction where the usually playful god is shown as the serious, war-ready charioteer from the Mahabharata. It’s this blend of history, mythology, and enduring worship that gives the temple its unique soul.

Maybe you're in Chennai on a quick weekend trip. Maybe you’ve got just a few hours between meetings. Or maybe you're a curious wanderer looking to see more than malls and Marina Beach.

But here’s the question: have you ever stood in a place where chants echo off 1,200-year-old stone walls, while the scent of Tulsi and temple camphor fills the air?

That’s Parthasarathy Temple for you.

Outside the temple, the world is alive with colour and chatter—vendors selling Tulsi garlands, crisp dosas sizzling on roadside tawas, and the occasional cow meandering like it owns the place (because, well, it sort of does). It's also a brilliant spot for photographers: faded yet ornate gopurams, devotional murals, and generations of life unfolding in real time.

Inside, though, the pace slows. Devotees line up in silent reverence. Priests chant in Tamil and Sanskrit. Lamps flicker in the dim sanctum. And somewhere in that sacred stillness, Chennai’s fast-moving pulse seems to pause—just for a moment.

So, if you’re looking for a place that blends ancient history, living cultures, and a calm moment of reflection amid your city explorations, don’t miss Parthasarathy Temple. It’s not just a visit—it’s a conversation with Chennai’s past and present.

A NOTE ON READING MY BLOG

Considering the wonderfully diverse mix of visitors these temples attract—from Chennai locals on their daily rounds to international travellers experiencing their first South Indian shrine—I’ve tried to pack in as much essential information as possible. This blog aims to be both a practical guide and a cultural companion, blending historical context, architectural insights, spiritual nuances, and everyday observations.

I’ve made a conscious effort to strike a balance between catering to domestic readers who may already be familiar with many of the rituals and traditions, and international visitors who may be encountering them for the first time. For instance, some practices—like entering the inner sanctum (Garbhagriha)—are reserved for Hindus only, which can come as a surprise to some foreign visitors. I’ve flagged such moments to help you navigate with awareness and respect, without feeling lost or awkward.

That said, feel free to cherry-pick the parts of this blog that resonate most with you. Whether you're here for the architecture, the photography, the spiritual atmosphere, or just a great cultural story, there's something in these temples for everyone. If the whole post doesn’t hold your attention, no worries—dip into what interests you most, and skip the rest. After all, exploring a temple should feel like a discovery, not a checklist

So much ado in the previous temple! Let's relax a bit and start the tour of this temple. Shall we?

GETTING THERE: LOCATION, TRAVEL TIPS & TIMINGS

Curious why the change? Please check in coming blog on Hindu symbols.

Usual Temple Timings: 6.00 am to 12.30 pm & 4.00 pm to 8.00 pm. 6.00 am to 10.00 pm (On functions and ceremony days)

PARKING: WHERE TO LEAVE YOUR VEHICLE

Car parking? Everything from the previous blog about Kapaleshwara temple still applies—just multiply the difficulty by five, toss in a few bafflingly placed cones, an old man taken the role of a traffic cop himself directing traffic like it’s a Formula 1 pit stop, and, of course, at least two cows casually holding a board meeting in the exact spot you were eyeing.

FOOTWEAR ETIQUETTE & DRESS CODE: TO KNOW BEFORE YOU GO

Not quite as organized as the previous Kapaleshwara temple. Forget fancy shoe racks—just find a shop nearby, they’ll babysit your footwear for a modest “donation” But here’s the kicker: when you exit the temple, you’ll likely be 250 meters and one spiritual journey away from your shoes. In this temple, for reasons known only to the temple architects and the universe, you go in through one side of the gate and get spat out from an entirely different side making it hard to get back your shoes. Don’t ask me why. It’s just how things are.

Dress code: Long trousers that cover the ankles and no sleeveless tops are expected. In short—dress modestly, please. You might spot people wandering in with shorts and T-shirts, but temple rules tend to change faster than a monsoon cloud over Chennai. It’s always safer (and more respectful) to err on the side of tradition.

THE TEMPLE: HISTORY, ARCHITECTURE & CULTURAL SIGNIFICANCE

Originally built by the Pallavas in 8th century and later expanded by Vijaya nagar  dynasty in the 16th century. Dravidian temple.

Architecturally, it’s the same usual suspects I mentioned in my previous blog—gopuram, mandapam, vimana—all present and accounted for. However, since this is a Vishnu temple, there are a few key differences. First off, no Navagraha shrine here. Why? Because when you’ve got Vishnu, you don’t need to be negotiating with planetary middle management. He’s the CEO of cosmic affairs. Lakshmi, the goddess of wealth and compassion, is his consort, and together they make a divine power couple you absolutely want on your side. And instead of Nandi (Shiva’s trusty bull), you’ll find Garuda—Vishnu’s majestic eagle ride—or sometimes an elephant. Vishnu, by the way, isn’t just some celestial supervisor. In Sanskrit, his name literally means “the one who is as vast as the sky.” All-knowing, all-powerful, and when he decides to bless you—you’re sorted. For this life, every sequel after – and beyond! I mean it. No smiley here.

Note: Until recently, non-Hindus were not permitted inside the main temple premises. However, starting last season, the temple has begun allowing entry. That said, policies can change, and enforcement may vary—best to call ahead or check locally before you go to avoid surprises.

Note: In the following sections, I offer a “Virtual Walkthrough of the Temple, in Words and Images” —a vivid, step-by-step walkthrough that reveals its many facets in words. If you prefer to experience the temple first hand and let its beauty unfold naturally during your visit, you may wish to skip ahead. For your convenience, I’ve enclosed the virtual tour within red markers.

Exploring the temple

This particular temple is dedicated to Lord Krishna—yes, that Krishna—who at one point decided to moonlight as a charioteer for Prince Arjuna. Because when you’re an all-powerful deity, sometimes you just want to drive your best friend into battle and drop some life-altering philosophy mid-ride. No big deal. Just divine things.

When Arjuna, overwhelmed by doubt and sorrow, chose not to fight in the battle of Kurukshetra, it was Krishna who counselled him. His profound discourse, delivered in that moment of moral crisis, was later compiled as the Bhagavad Gita—one of the most revered spiritual texts in Indian philosophy.

Partha is one of the names of Arjuna, and Sarathy means charioteer. Therefore, Parthasarathy translates to “the charioteer of Partha” or “Arjuna’s charioteer”—a revered epithet of Lord Krishna, who assumed the role of Arjuna’s guide and charioteer during the Mahabharata war.

Now, the journey from Mylapore (the previous Kapaleshwara temple) to Triplicane—home to the Parthasarathy Temple—is technically just 4 kilometres. On paper. In reality, it feels more like a time-space riddle. That's because of all the new metro work going on now but once the project is completed it would sure be an easy and smooth ride.

Welcome to Parthasarathy Temple—the spiritual equivalent of finishing an obstacle course blindfolded. You’ve dodged traffic, outwitted auto drivers, survived narrow lanes, and now stand victorious… or at least mildly disoriented. But hey, you’re here. That’s what counts!

This is no ordinary temple for Hindus. No, no—this is a rite of passage. All the traffic, the Metro construction, the mysteriously disappearing footpaths… they weren’t obstacles, they were trials. Tests of faith & patience, for many are called, but only a few are chosen—the ones who survive the chaos and make it to the sanctum without losing their cool…You are ready to receive wisdom from god Krishna – just as warrior prince Arjuna did. I mean it seriously.

The first thing that'll catch your eye as you approach this temple—besides the unmistakable divine vibes—is the forehead fashion statement. Remember the last Shiva temple? People there had those iconic horizontal stripes across their foreheads, like miniature spiritual headbands. Hope you noticed! If not, don’t worry—I’ve intentionally left a few things for you to spot on your own. That’s half the fun, isn’t it?

Now here’s the twist: in this temple, folks go vertical with their forehead marks. That’s right—different direction, same devotion. It's like Team Horizontal vs. Team Vertical... forehead edition.

Pro tip: Play “spot the differences” as you go to avoid getting templed out.

(And yes, there are pictures below to help you out— spiritual style is serious business you see!)

And it’s not just the devotees—not even the temple elephants or the towering entrance gopurams are spared. Everyone and everything’s in on this sacred style trend.

Devout Vaishnavites—followers of Vishnu—often place themselves in the humble position of Arjuna, seeking spiritual guidance and clarity from Lord Krishna. This sense of devotion and surrender is deeply symbolic. In fact, when visiting the sanctum of a reclining Vishnu (as Krishna), one traditionally first beholds the feet of the deity before lifting their gaze to his face. This ritual act signifies humility, reverence, and the devotee’s readiness to receive divine counsel and grace.

After visiting the main shrine, you make your way around to meet Vishnu’s various avatars—Narasimha (the original no-nonsense protector), Rama (calm, regal, and forever righteous), and others depending on the temple. But don’t think you're done just yet. There’s one more very important stop: Thayar—Lakshmi, the divine mother. Let’s face it, when you visit someone’s home, how rude would it be to greet only the man of the house and ignore the lady running the show? Plus if you’re looking for blessings, abundance, and maybe a smoother day, it’s wise to say hello to the one who handles the cosmic household accounts.

The gopuram

The gopuram of the Parthasarathy Temple rises majestically over the bustling streets of Triplicane, richly adorned with vibrant stucco figures from the Mahabharata and Vishnu’s many avatars.

Unlike some of the more austere towers seen in other temples, this one feels like a vivid storyboard—Krishna with Arjuna, Narasimha in mid-roar, Rama with his bow and all!

The coconut-breaking zone

In Vishnu temples, particularly those that emphasize Sattvic bhava—the quality of purity, calmness, and harmony—a more quieter and gentle approach to offerings is often proffered. Rather than breaking a coconut, which is common in other traditions, devotees may offer the whole coconut or other symbolic items in their complete form. This practice aligns with the serene and contemplative nature of Vishnu worship, reflecting an inner attitude of devotion, humility, and quiet surrender.

The circumambulation

Once you’ve had your moment with Krishna in the sanctum, the journey continues—not out the door, but around it. Like many ancient temples, the Parthasarathy Temple is built for movement, contemplation, and a slow spiral into serenity. The circumambulatory passage, or pradakshina patha, takes you on a quiet loop around the sanctum, and it’s not just a walking route—it’s a spiritual side quest.

As you walk, you pass shrines tucked into corners like divine cameos: there’s Narasimha looking intense as ever, Rama standing calm and collected, and even a shrine for Ranganatha reclining like he's on an eternal vacation. And of course, you’ll eventually come across Thayar, the compassionate goddess Lakshmi, waiting with the kind of cosmic patience only a divine mother can manage, the Friday Hall, where special rituals like the Swing service for Vedavalli Thayar are performed, and the temple kitchen and well, which provide offerings and holy water for daily worship

The path itself feels tucked away from the temple’s louder outer energy. It’s shaded, calmer, and carries the soft sounds of chants, bells, and the occasional parent reminding their kid not to run. You’re meant to go slow here—each step is a prayer, each turn a gentle reminder that in life, as in temples, sometimes the way forward is the way around.

The Dwaja Sthambam(S)

This temple doesn’t settle for just one Dwaja Sthambam (flag mast) —oh no. It proudly features two. One for Lord Krishna, the main deity, and another for Yoga Narasimha tucked into the western precincts. It’s as if each form of Vishnu demanded their own flagstaff, just to make sure no one forgets who’s presiding over what. This is divine delegation not divine ego.

Haven’t we seen this somewhere else? Of course we have—just like how Julius Caesar and Augustus arranged for 31 days each in July and August. …

You better say “Hi” to all of them.

The scared tree of the temple

In the heart of the bustling Parthasarathy Temple complex, amid gopurams, pigeons, and devotional decibels, stands the Punnai tree (Calophyllum inophyllum - English common name Alexandria Laurel), the temple’s sacred tree—or as it’s reverently called, the Sthala Vriksham in Sanskrit.

It’s no ordinary tree. With its broad, shady canopy and glossy leaves, the Punnai tree has been a quiet witness to centuries of rituals, recitals, and the occasional confused tourist. Locals believe it absorbs prayers and emits peace.

You’ll often spot devotees tying sacred threads around the trunk of the Punnai tree—whispering wishes, sending up prayers, or sometimes just seeking a shady timeout from the sun and life’s general chaos. Local belief has it that sitting under a Punnai tree can calm the mind and spark clarity. Think of Newton! Something always seems to click under a tree—whether it's gravity, divine inspiration, or the sudden realization that you left your sandals at the temple gate.

FESTIVALS & CELEBRATIONS: THE TEMPLE IN FULL SPLENDOR

Brahmotsavam (April–May)

This is the big one (a.k.a the Chithirai Brahmotsavam) —a grand, 10-day celebration filled with colourful processions, beautifully decorated vahanas (vehicles), music, dance, and crowds of devotees. Lord Parthasarathy is taken out in procession every day on a different vahana, including the majestic Garuda (human-eagle) vahana. It's a 10-day celebration packed with rituals, processions, music, and community energy.

Each day features the temple's main deity (in this case, Lord Parthasarathy, a form of Krishna) being taken out in grand processions on a different vahanas (vehicles), like:

• Garuda (the eagle)

• Yanai (Elephant)

• Simha (Lion)

• Surya Prabha (Sun Chariot)

• Chandra Prabha (Moon Chariot)

And the big finale usually involves the Rathotsavam—a chariot pulled by devotees through the streets.

Vibe: Think of it as a spiritual street festival with ancient roots and modern Instagram appeal - it’s a photographer’s dream.

Vaikunta Ekadasi (December–January)

This marks the opening of the Paramapada Vaasal (the gate to Vaikunta or heaven), and thousands flock to walk through it for spiritual blessings. It’s observed with fasting, chanting, and night-long prayers.

Vibe: A serene, spiritual marathon – night long

Panguni Uthiram (March–April)

Celebrates the celestial wedding of Lord Parthasarathy with Goddess Rukmini. The temple is adorned like a wedding hall, and the mood is festive, with rituals and symbolic ceremonies.

Vibe: A divine wedding party—minus the buffet. No wine either but with way more incense.

Krishna Jayanthi (a.k.a Gokulashtami - August–September)

Marks the birth of Krishna (Parthasarathy is Krishna in his charioteer form). The temple celebrates with devotional music, playful recreations of Krishna's childhood, and sweet offerings.

Vibe: Joyful chaos with a side of butter and flute music.

Theppotsavam (Float Festival – February)

The deity is taken on a decorated float around the temple tank (Kairavini Pushkarni. Kairava = white lotus & Pushkarni = sacred tank in Sanskrit.), accompanied by lights and chanting.

The float (or Theppam) represents the cosmic ocean, and the deity's serene ride on it symbolizes the divine navigating the universe with grace and balance. Water is a purifier in Hindu philosophy, so the float procession is like a gentle, symbolic cleansing for the world (and our minds).

Vibe: Like a boat parade, but for gods—peaceful, reflective, and quite photogenic.

PHOTOS: WHAT’S ALLOWED, NOT, ANGLES, LIGHT & GOLDEN HOUR

The golden hour occurs twice daily: shortly after sunrise and just before sunset. During this time, the sunlight is softer and warmer, casting a gentle glow that enhances architectural details. ​ These times can vary slightly depending on the season, so it's advisable to check the local sunrise and sunset times on the day of your visit.​

Photo angles & perspective

• Temple Entrance: Position yourself directly in front of the main entrance to capture a symmetrical shot of the gopuram.​

• Adjacent Rooftops: Some nearby buildings may offer rooftop access, providing a higher vantage point. Always seek permission before accessing private properties.​

• Temple Tank Area: The temple tank, located nearby, can serve as a reflective surface, adding depth to your photographs.​

• Drone Photography: If you have access to a drone and the necessary permissions, aerial shots can provide a unique perspective of the temple complex. Ensure compliance with local regulations regarding drone usage.

EXPLORING THE SURROUNDINGS: AROUND THE TEMPLECOMPLEX

• Dhotis, cotton sarees, brass idols, and mini Puja kits.

• Right outside the eastern entrance of the temple lies the Pushkarni, the temple sacred tank

• Local low key shops selling silk

AMENITIES & PUBLIC FACILITIES FOR VISITORS

• Moderately clean squat toilets

• No toilet paper in sight

• Bring your own roll—just in case

• A sneaky workaround: find a nearby café or restaurant, order a coffee or a drink, and use their facilities without a fuss

SHOPPING & ESSENTIALS: WHAT TO BUY AND WHERE

Inside the temple, there's a humble kiosk that sells blessed food. A waft of aroma—an enticing blend of savouries—fills the air, with the distinctive fragrance of tamarind rice, the temple’s specialty, taking centre stage. The scent of Tulsi (holy basil), mingled with a medley of fresh flowers offered in devotion, adds a divine note. Even if you’ve just had breakfast, the fragrance alone will awaken your appetite all over again.

Otherwise, from a shopping perspective, there’s nothing major around the temple—just a handful of modest silk shops, a few stalls selling miniature religious temples, and small-time lady vendors expertly stringing fresh flower garlands on the roadside.

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